Midsummer's Night

Christianity is "new" to Iceland in that it only became officially recognized in the year 1000. Even then, the law stipulated that the people were allowed to practice their pagan faiths, so long as they did so in private. This single clause in the new law is probably responsible for the innumerable superstitions that still survive in Iceland today, among them, the celebration of Midsummer's Night.

In pagan times, holidays were marked by the phases of the moon and the changing of the seasons. The longest day of the year, Midsummer (actually the first day of summer), was a celebratory holiday that revolved around the goddess Freyja, whose primary areas of expertise were sexuality and fertility. You can imagine the gusto with which this holiday was celebrated - after a long, brutal winter, summer's finally here, and celebrations are in honour of the Goddess of Love? You bet it was a good time.

Not that things have changed very much since. Even today, the arrival of summer is greeted with great enthusiasm, as you'll find that on the first remotely mild day of the year, Icelanders pour into the streets wearing skirts and t-shirts. But there are also a few superstitions surrounding Midsummer (due to begin on 21 June, 4:26 A.M.) that have managed to survive.

One of the biggest ones is, you can roll around in the dew at dawn on Midsummer and any wish you make will come true. This is risky, particularly in an urban area like Reykjavík, but people still do this. I have a couple of friends who roll in the dew every year. Do their wishes come true? It could very well be. Either way, it's a great excuse to get naked in public with your friends, in case you needed one.

Midsummer is also a good time to gather magical rocks and plants, as they're supposedly at the height of their power on this day. I'd suggest getting out of town that day, going for a walk down by the beach, or in a patch of woods, and looking around for small stones that look magical to you. Pick up this stone, put it in your pocket, and keep it - you've got your new magic talisman. Not that Midsummer power is confined to human enjoyment alone - on this day, seals can slip out of their skins (for what purpose, I have no idea) and cows are reputed to be able to speak human languages. If you had one day of the year to talk, what would you say? Head out to the nearest dairy farm and find out for yourself.

Whether you believe in any of this or not, Midsummer does mark the beginning of what's arguably the best time to be in Reykjavík. The sun doesn't set, the weather is mild, and the number of things to see and do will make your head spin. Summer is truly a great time to be in the city, whether you start it off with a naked roll in the dew or not.

By Paul F. Nikolov

Photo by Silja Magg

- Find a beautiful spot where you can be sure to follow the sun's movements all night long. In Reykjavík the sun doesn't set until 24:05 and it rises again at 2:54. Actually, you won't ever see nightfall, just a slightly twilit sky.

- Hike up Esjan. Where better to watch the sunset and sunrise than at the peak of Reykjavík's favourite mountain? Make sure you're equipped with a warm jumper and good hiking boots, and some hearty sandwiches for when you get up to the top.

- Get a few friends together and roll around naked in the dew, of course, but you might want to try some Brennivín beforehand if you are lacking the courage - it makes the experience a little more fun too. Or take a partner for warmth.

- Go horse riding.

- Midnight Picnic. Stop at a great supermarket or deli and fill up an old-fashioned picnic basket. We recommend stopping off at Ostabúðin, a fantastic gourmet shop on Skólavörðustígur to pick up cheese, cold cuts, biscuits, desserts and chocolates. Yummy.

- One of the more secluded places you can find is the hot spring river on Hellisheiði, a one-hour drive from Reykjavík and a few kilometre walk to relax with some friends.

- If you are feeling a little bit more social than that, you can always play golf in the wee hours of the night, which is a popular thing with some of the locals.

- Pick herbs, dew and fjallagras.

- Look for elves and other creatures - but be on the lookout for dangerous creatures such as the nykur (somewhat of a demon horse). Seriously, more people believe in these things in Iceland than you would think.

-amb / - mld