Surviving the Darkness

So, you find yourself visiting (or living in) Iceland during the end of November and the beginning half of December. Depressed? Of course not! Cold and dark may be a bind for snakes, sailors and sunbathers- but this time of year has its charms. Here are a few suggestions of activities to help you fully appreciate - nay, fall in love with - this hellish season.

Swimming outside is the perfect place to start. It's hard to describe how good it feels to be comfortable outside, nearly naked, in a blizzard. It's quite exhilarating to say the least. If you do feel a nip in the water, simply warm up in one of the tropical hot pots that surround every Reykjavík pool.

When it's light at this time of year, it is probably not sunny. But when it is sunny, you can't fail to be impressed by the gentle light, with its gold and pink tinge bouncing off the bright white mountains. The ambience could hardly be more different to summer and the colours are somehow warmer than the blues and greens of summer. When the streets are also snowy and the sun doth shine, it is near impossible not to wear a smile.

There is also a certain novelty factor to walking around in high winds and sleet or snow. I often go out for a walk in the worst of weather conditions - not because I am a masochist, but because it actually feels good when you're wrapped up warm and waterproof - not to mention being excellent exercise for the calf muscles.

I am told that Icelanders go to the cinema more than any other nation. If that's true, then why not join them? A couple of hours' escapism in a comfy chair in a warm auditorium won't do any harm. Or, if you prefer the theatre, check out the play with the subtitles at Iðnó.

Scotch whisky, schnapps and strong Russian vodka have always been important in warming up the soul, but Iceland's only traditional warmer-upper has been Brennivín; a caraway schnapps, nicknamed 'black death'. If you like the distinctive flavour (which I kinda do a little bit), then that's great - but most people don't. Cue Tópas and Ópal, two of Iceland's oldest liquorice sweets, now available as shots. Very warming, very wintry and very good for clearing nasal passages!

Although this issue expires before the big day, I think it's also worth mentioning 'The Big C' - by that I mean nothing more sinister than Christmas of course. Crimbo is a big thing over here… it's pretty much the only reason December was invented. Decorations go up on the first Sunday and stay up until well into February and shopping becomes even more important than normal. Many different varieties of biscuit (cookie) will be available, as will the malt and orange Christmas drink, jólaöl.

Then there's Sigur Rós - the musical incarnation of snow and mountains. Their second album ('Ágætis byrjun') and their current (fourth) album, 'Takk' will have you wishing the cold Icelandic winter would last forever. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then you obviously don't own the CDs….

Finally, you may have heard that at this time of year we replace sunlight with northern light - don't miss them. The city is too bright to see them, but trips go out to the countryside every evening. Their ghostly majesty won't make you any warmer, but you'll be so captivated that the frostbite won't bother you any more: so said the seven-fingered tourist with the wide grin I met last evening.

Text by Alex Elliott